February 2007
“But won’t the tourists want to eat turtle eggs?”
For me, this question sums up the challenge facing fishing communities and conservationists around the island of Banggi, which rests just off Borneo’s northern coastline.
To the elderly fisherman who asked us, it was an innocent enough idea, even a generous one.
Surely visitors to these idyllic seas would want to share the local delicacy?

Storm rising. Kudat, northern Borneo
To me, travelling with WWF from the UK, it came as a bit of a shock. But marine biologist Lee Yoke Lee, our host from WWF Malaysia, showed no signs of surprise.
“People around here have always eaten turtle eggs,” she said. “It is illegal. But that is not going to stop them.”
We were standing on the puddled floor of the partially ruined village meeting house, having a conversation which, for the fisherman, must have already seemed like an odd one. As part of a WWF pilot project in the area, Lee Yoke Lee was trying to get them to decide which areas of the ocean they would stop fishing.
“We are talking about their livelihoods.” said Lee. “We don’t make the decisions for them because they are the ones who will have to abide by them.”
The huddle of men stood around the whiteboard, which was hanging from a palm tree, drawing no-take zones and smoking heavily. Behind them the sea shimmered and hushed against holiday brochure sand, showing little sign of the problems these drastic measures are trying to solve.
But earlier in the day it had only required a snorkel and mask to see what was happening.
As we swam the coral’s explosions of colour and life gave way to blasted wastelands, the aftermath of bomb fishing, cyanide and trawler nets.
Although the underwater vistas still took the breath from your snorkel, it was clear even to me that there was plenty missing from the picture postcard scenes.
We saw very few large fish, no sharks, no turtles. Closer in to the shore we visited the pens where the remnants of fish species which should be abundant are being captive fed, because the individuals caught are too small for the table.
In the waters around Banngi, the top of the ocean’s food chain is being destroyed to become part of the human food chain.
Lee said: “The best chance of preserving this area and improving the lives of the people is to reduce the damage to the coral and attract tourists. But tourists will not come to see this.”
It’s a vicious cycle: under increased pressure from large scale commercial trawling, a desperate minority of local fishers are destroying the coral to get at the fish they need, because there aren’t enough tourists spending hard cash in the area. But the tourists won’t come until the destruction stops and the big fish and turtles return. It is this cycle which WWF is helping local people break free from.
There are those who might say that the struggle is over. In 2003 the Sabah government approved the creation of Tun Mustapha Park. At over one million hectares, it has the potential to be Southeast Asia’s largest marine park, giving increased protection to local endangered species, the reefs and the livelihoods of local people.
On paper it is exactly what the area needs – a new era of co-operation between all those using the marine resources so as to maintain them properly. But full protection of this huge area is yet to be realised, and in the meantime the destruction continues.
While approaching another idyllic snorkelling site in WWF’s powerboat Mameng, we came across a lone dynamite fisherman, who packed up his equipment and left as soon as we approached. In his wake he left the floating victims – brightly coloured reef fish too small to eat, killed indiscriminately by the blast.
WWF’s work on the shores of Kudat and Banngi is hoping to make scenes like this a thing of the past, and the Tun Mustapha Park a reality.
Then local people may at last be freed from desperate subsistence fishing by a more prosperous and mixed economy. Across the park, various areas will be set aside for recreation and commercial purposes, while some areas will be placed off limits to recover.
Without the cooperation of local people the park would be impossible to manage. This is why Lee Yoke Lee’s small pilot project, which aims to do just that, is entirely voluntary.
WWF has used no-take zones extensively around the world, demonstrating how fish stocks regenerate in these safe havens and rapidly spill over into areas where they can then be fished, meaning richer pickings for everyone.
Understandably, the fishers of Banngi, whose lives depend on the outcome, are not satisfied with reports in books from far away. But bravely, cautiously, they are willing to give it a try, to see for themselves right here.
By the time the sun sets and the children return to their beach volleyball, the whiteboard map is filled with multi-coloured suggestions, which will be taken to the next meeting, and the next, until agreement is reached.
Because if we want a brighter future, everybody has to be in on it.